Nothing says summer to me like pasta with fresh tomatoes and seafood. I had followed recipes for years trying to make the perfect linguine with clams for Michael, based on some vague idea of what he described he wanted…until we visited Capri, an island off the southern coast of Italy. There I learned how simple it really was, cooking without a recipe.
At the time, we were heading into mushroom season, so I was ordering everything I could with porcini and truffles until we got to Capri. I decided there that seafood was definitely the way to go, so I ordered the local specialty pasta with mussels. Michael ordered pasta with clams and tomatoes. When it arrived, he couldn’t stop talking about how amazing it was, so he asked the waiter how to make it. It was such a simple dish, so that amused the waiter. What I hadn’t understood until then was how much olive oil was required to make this dish correctly. Don’t be afraid! It’s good fat.
Clean and Inspect Clams and Mussels
After you scrub your mussels with a stiff bristled brush and cut off their beards, make sure the shells are all closed. If any are open, close them or run some water over them to see if they close. If so, they’re good. If any will not stay shut after toying with them a bit, discard them. I like to put them in the refrigerator in some salty ice water for a bit so they release any grit, but it’s not absolutely necessary. However, I definitely always put clams through several changes of clean, salty ice water in the refrigerator after scrubbing. You want to give the clams some time to burp out the sand because biting into a grain of sand is very unappetizing.
Michael used to prefer clams, but since Capri, he has grown to love mussels even more. Yes, he has continued to expand his palate!
How to Make the Sauce
Blanch your fresh tomatoes by putting into your boiling pasta water for a minute or less. If they’re ripe enough, the skins will split, making them easy to peel. Remove with a slotted spoon and put them immediately into a bath of ice water. If the skins don’t split on their own, remove them anyway. Once cool enough to handle, I score the underside and peel. Then chop, leaving them in big chunks and put into a deep skillet. Toss some minced garlic on top and more olive oil than you would probably think is necessary. The olive oil makes the sauce.
Cooking Clams and Mussels
When you are ready to cook your pasta, add your fresh mussels and/or clams to the tomatoes and olive oil. Cover and turn the burner on high just until the shellfish open. I have a glass lid so I can keep an eye on them. If you don’t, you can peek after about 6 minutes. Shake or stir the pan if you need to move them around a bit. You just want the shellfish to steam open.
Once they’ve opened, remove from heat. They will get tough if you continue to cook them. They can sit while you finish cooking the pasta and you can start spooning sauce into your bowls.
If you find that a couple of your mussels refuse to open after a reasonable length of time while all the rest have opened, please discard them. Same procedure goes for clams: cook only the ones that are closed or remain closed when prompted to do so. Discard the ones that don’t open after cooking.
Some Final Words
For tomatoes that are super ripe and in season, you won’t even need to add salt. If the tomatoes aren’t perfect, feel free to season a little bit. You can do something similar with pantry items if you don’t have fresh. Use canned tomatoes and canned clams. Maybe some clam juice and some dried herbs. Just remember to use plenty of olive oil!
I have heard an adage about only eating mussels in months with an R in them. All I know is that you shouldn’t have to worry if you buy from a reputable fishmonger like Santa Monica Seafood. I want my fresh mussels and clams when tomatoes are in season!
What if tomatoes are not in season and you don’t have access to fresh, quality seafood? You don’t have to sacrifice flavor. There is hope if your pantry is well stocked. Read Pantry Pasta Perfection next.
I am going to try this! I love seafood fettucine.
I’ve forgotten how many restaurant meals have been ruined because of “discovering” sand in my clams. I’m not a picky person but it’s just a terrible sensation. I thought: “why would I ever try to make this at home if professionals can’t even get this right?”
At least now the idea is no longer completely off the table.
Hooray! You can make it better at home! Unfortunately, I have had that same sandy experience dining out and it boggles my mind…so many things you can do better at home if you give it a little forethought. If you’re going to make clams, consider it an afternoon or overnight project because you must allow them time to do their own thing…naturally. Did you get a stiff bristled brush?
I will have to eventually. Thing is there’s not a whole lot of super fresh seafood where I live. Also, with the size of my kitchen, I hesitate to invest in a lot of speciality tools… but a brush is simple enough.